![]() All products include the VAT according to the destination country. Exceptions to this are pre-orders and possible, but unlikely, errors in stock numbers. but thanks again for the advice.All products listed as “in stock” are in our warehouse and ready to be shipped within the next day. Ill leave the Hall ones you recommended to people who have more patience and understanding of the system than i do. When I up-rate the engine, better head, twin SU carbs, exhaust and cam etc all old school stuff, i "might" fit a bought electronic ignition kit and go for something like a complete 123 dizzy with everything built in, and only a couple of wires to connect up, or go for something like Lumenition which i run for years with no problems.again easy and simple to fit. What i want to do first is try and work out why I have the miss-fire and loss of power (hopefully it is the advance weights so thanks for that advice) I have a few other ideas as well now. One of the reason I have gone back to running a classic is to get away from all the electronic cr*p that's fitted to a lot of modern cars simply I hate it. I have no idea what a "Hall" system is.I did look at the link and the PDF and that's way to much fiddling around for my liking and patience, i also don't want to run anything with bits from this car and that car. Sorry boys i appreciate your help and advice and I'm sure it works fine but you might as well be speaking Russian. It now looks as if i have a 2ltr dizzy on my 1.8 engine ! Volvo fitted a few different types so that's something i have to look into. ![]() Something is breaking down under load ? I've had coils go before but usually they just stop.I'm really getting pi***d off with it now. It cant be points and plugs again as its not done many miles since!!! i think its something to do with sitting around for so long during covid, but i did start it every week and warmed it up fully. I then changed the points, condenser, plugs etc and it was fine.īut a few weeks ago without doing anything too it the problem returned.On a long hill it just goes flat and missing.again you swear it was fuel.īut it only went when I changed the ignition parts. I had the exact same problem last year it runs ok until you hit a long hill, you would swear its not getting enough fuel, but checked all that and even fitted a new fuel tank to get rid of the crud in the old one. I got a timing gun, set it at the correct settings in the book ( it was slightly out)ĭrove it today and the damn thing is slightly worse. This amazon is driving me around the bend. The moral of this? Static timing will only get you part of the way, as will tired ignition components. The fuelling made a difference but nowhere near as bad as the timing was, and that was from an AFR sweep ranging from 9:1 to13:1. ![]() With the above knowledge and the 123 programmable dizzy, the 2CV I owned was a lovely thing. You could argue you could just lock the dizzy out and have 35 degrees but that can cause low speed driveability issues, starting problems (kickback) and potential knock issues at low rpm under load. 10 degrees : 300BHP this run actually have flames coming out of the exhaust, which was cited as one reason for harming turbo life potentially. On an engine that made 430BHP in a decent state of tune, I think the following were the results. How much you ask?Įngine Masters did an AFR and timing showdown. ![]() Timing is one of the biggest influencers on engine power. Timing advance (whether the timing moves as you rev the engine). ![]() Timing scatter (i.e if the advance mechanism is shot) This can make a big difference to how the engine feels. A decent timing gun lets you see the dynamic advance. ![]()
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